In a modest kitchen in the heart of Tunis’s old Bab Souika neighborhood, a woman crouches over a large bowl, preparing what is arguably North Africa’s most iconic dish—couscous. Revered across the Maghreb, couscous has transcended its culinary status to become a symbol of tradition, hospitality, and identity, especially in Tunisia, where it remains a mainstay on the family table.
Shahira Said, 49, methodically works the tiny semolina grains with her hands, adding olive oil and a touch of water, rubbing them to separate the grains. This is the first step in a ritual that has been passed down through generations—one that begins with patience and ends in celebration.
The Steam-Powered Ritual
Shahira lights the stove and begins by sautéing chopped onions in olive oil in a large pot. Small pieces of meat are added, followed by spices and broth. Above this pot sits the keskas, a two-tiered steamer. While the sauce and meat simmer below, the couscous steams gently above, absorbing flavor without direct contact with liquid.
After about 30 minutes, she removes the couscous, sprinkles it with water, and fluffs it by hand to keep the grains light and separate. It’s then returned to the steamer for a second round. Her eyes and hands never rest—adjusting heat, stirring occasionally, making sure the grains don’t clump, preserving their delicate texture and aroma.
As the sauce nears completion, Shahira adds chunks of red pumpkin, followed by separately fried potatoes and deseeded green peppers. These are salted and reserved for garnish. Once the vegetables are tender and the broth rich, the couscous is mixed with butter or ghee, and a few spoonfuls of the sauce, to absorb color and taste.
Finally, the couscous is assembled in a large serving dish, drenched in the vegetable-rich broth, and topped with meat, fried peppers, boiled eggs, and sweet raisins—a meal ready to honor both guests and family alike.
A Nourishing Staple
More than a meal, couscous is a nutritional powerhouse. Made from semolina, it’s high in plant-based protein and fiber, helping to maintain satiety and regulate blood sugar levels. Cooked with vegetables, legumes, and lean meats, it becomes a balanced, hearty dish that feeds both body and soul.
Its versatility is also one of its greatest strengths. Though the base remains consistent across Tunisia and the Maghreb, ingredients and preparations vary by region, season, and occasion.
A Dish for All Moments
In Tunisia, couscous is served during weddings and funerals, religious ceremonies and festive gatherings. It’s the food of the poor and the pride of grandmothers. Traditionally presented in large communal dishes adorned with meat, chickpeas, and raisins, it brings people together—around the table, and through shared memory.
Historians trace the origins of couscous to Amazigh (Berber) roots. Archaeological findings support this, including ancient cooking vessels like the keskas, dating back to the time of the Numidian king Masinissa. The deep cultural lineage has helped cement couscous as more than food—it’s heritage.
Couscous Across Borders
The dish traveled eastward with Tunisian fighters who joined the Palestinian struggle, and became known in the Levant as maghrabiya. In Tunisia, families prepare and store couscous in bulk between May and January. It is steamed once, then sun-dried over several days before storage. This preserved couscous comes in three main forms:
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Fine couscous (Mesfouf): Eaten with dried fruit or yogurt.
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Medium couscous: Cooked with broth, vegetables, meat, or fish.
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Spiced couscous (Mghammem): Mixed with onions, hot peppers, spices, and tomatoes.
UNESCO Recognition and Culinary Unity
Despite national variations—such as Tunisia’s frequent use of harissa (hot chili paste)—couscous remains a shared Maghreb treasure. In 2018, Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco, and Mauritania joined efforts to register couscous on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list, a project that emphasized its unifying cultural power.
As spices linger in the air and the steam from the couscous warms the kitchen, Shahira Said reflects on the meaning of this humble dish. Like the vapor that fills the room and binds each grain, couscous represents a unity of people, tradition, and memory—holding together the essence of a shared cultural story.